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Okay as most of you guys know my 32r basically isnt drivabe due to a clunking noise in the engine bay......allen came round to have a listen ans said it could possible be a valve in the head or a lifter....... just wanna know opinons as ive been told engine rebuilds.....reconidtion her .....or just fix the problem she has and that.....
What to do
Started by Nay Nay, Nov 15 2010 05:57 PM
#1
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:57 PM
Nay Nay
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#2
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:24 PM
NA_Goodness
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Remove the motor and get it rebuilt to factory specs. Its the cheapest but best way to get the car back on the road.
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#3
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:39 PM
Hanaldo
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Well simply fixing the current problem would be the cheapest way, depending on what it is. Replacing a valve or lifter is cheaper than stripping down a complete motor and replacing everything. But that would be the best way, because then you have a completely fresh motor.
Best way would be to talk to someone that rebuilds engines and can do the work for you. We can speculate all we want, but until you actually get advice from a qualified engine builder then it is all hearsay. Also keep in mind RB26's are specialized high performance motors, they require work from specialized mechanics who know them well. Not going to be cheap.
Best way would be to talk to someone that rebuilds engines and can do the work for you. We can speculate all we want, but until you actually get advice from a qualified engine builder then it is all hearsay. Also keep in mind RB26's are specialized high performance motors, they require work from specialized mechanics who know them well. Not going to be cheap.
#4
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:10 PM
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#5
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:30 PM
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#6
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:38 PM
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God damn... 
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#7
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:44 PM
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are u sure its an exhaust valve/lifter & not a bearing?
most places charge $1800-2k just to open a head. i'd say for rebuild ur looking at 4.5k - 6k depending on bearings, parts & labor.
^^ thats also assuming u bring it to the shop with the engine out, if u get them to take
it out of the car = more, then u also have to put the engine back in, get re-tune, new fluids all round, new timing belt, etc etc fkn etc
also when something blows its usually a good idea to look into what caused the problem.
most places charge $1800-2k just to open a head. i'd say for rebuild ur looking at 4.5k - 6k depending on bearings, parts & labor.
^^ thats also assuming u bring it to the shop with the engine out, if u get them to take
it out of the car = more, then u also have to put the engine back in, get re-tune, new fluids all round, new timing belt, etc etc fkn etc
also when something blows its usually a good idea to look into what caused the problem.
#8
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:47 PM
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Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:55 PM
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#10
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:55 PM
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#11
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:57 PM
Nay Nay
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are u sure its an exhaust valve/lifter & not a bearing?
most places charge $1800-2k just to open a head. i'd say for rebuild ur looking at 4.5k - 6k depending on bearings, parts & labor.
^^ thats also assuming u bring it to the shop with the engine out, if u get them to take
it out of the car = more, then u also have to put the engine back in, get re-tune, new fluids all round, new timing belt, etc etc fkn etc
also when something blows its usually a good idea to look into what caused the problem.
yeai allen said it was too high the sound to be a bearing but i gotta find somewhere to take her to have a poke around to find out what it is exactly
#12
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:58 PM
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#13
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:58 PM
Nay Nay
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just thinking bout trying to buy a new engine and just putting the mod from my engine straight into the new one but not sure
#14
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:59 PM
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#15
Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:25 PM
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#16
Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:34 PM
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#17
Posted 16 November 2010 - 01:40 AM
Char
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rocker covers off? just do compression test wet and dry see what compression u have in each cylinder.
yeah was hell loud from the head but there was no ticking/vibration on any of the coil packs
i wouldnt think it would be a lifter coz generally they make annoying ticking noises for months before/if they let go..
exhaust valve.. its all speculation til u do a compression test.
last time i heard that sound i had snapped a piston in half.. tho my car was under full load at about 8.5k
(actually i took my crank out just last saturday and i have chunks missing fomr 4/6 pistons and 4 cylinders, that block is soon to be fish food.)
my compression was hell good except for cyl 4 which had 0 compression "hrmm, wtf.. my battery must be flat"
yeah was hell loud from the head but there was no ticking/vibration on any of the coil packs
i wouldnt think it would be a lifter coz generally they make annoying ticking noises for months before/if they let go..
exhaust valve.. its all speculation til u do a compression test.
last time i heard that sound i had snapped a piston in half.. tho my car was under full load at about 8.5k
(actually i took my crank out just last saturday and i have chunks missing fomr 4/6 pistons and 4 cylinders, that block is soon to be fish food.)
my compression was hell good except for cyl 4 which had 0 compression "hrmm, wtf.. my battery must be flat"
#18
Posted 16 November 2010 - 10:15 AM
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We are talking about Nakkers here with a tool kit that comprises of a screwdriver and crescent.
To save them money the easiest approach is to use the screwdriver. It's only a few screws and a couple of bolts.
To save them money the easiest approach is to use the screwdriver. It's only a few screws and a couple of bolts.
#19
Posted 16 November 2010 - 10:57 AM
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Without hearing it, it sounds like a broken valve spring, broken valve or valve guide, or cracked a piston. Gudgeon pin? Lets think not.
I would be interested to know what is the exact cause of the problem.
I would be interested to know what is the exact cause of the problem.
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#20
Posted 16 November 2010 - 12:12 PM
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