126 replies to this topic

[NA_Goodness]

Didn't you have a bad knock in the engine which meant it had to come out?

[Tiddy]

Gearbox related. Clutch out and in neutral and i had a hell of a rattle.
But clutch in and there was no rattle.
Its gone away now, not sure what caused it.

[Hanaldo]

Sounds like throw-out bearing. No biggy.

[Tiddy]

End of day 1.
Motor is out.
Gotta pull out the gearbox and diff, remove coilovers to get rebuilt and basically get the car back to a shell.

[NA_Goodness]

Yeah, that's a thrust bearing. When the clutch is disengaged (pedal in), there is no load on the bearing so it's quiet. As soon as load is placed on it, that's when the noise comes. The opposite is a gearbox bearing, which is what I have now. Cbf pulling the box out though, cos it's only very minor.

[2LV8ETR]

Yeah, that's a thrust bearing. When the clutch is disengaged (pedal in), there is no load on the bearing so it's quiet. As soon as load is placed on it, that's when the noise comes. The opposite is a gearbox bearing, which is what I have now. Cbf pulling the box out though, cos it's only very minor.

Nup. Wrong way around. When you put your foot into the clutch it pushes the bearing onto the pressure plate fingers (diaphragm) which declamps the clutch plate. That's when the thrust bearing is noisy.
Most of the time it's the input shaft when you take your foot off the clutch.

I thought you were an apprentice mechanic man, you should know this.

[Tiddy]

That sounds much better havent broken one of those yet

[Hanaldo]

Nup. Wrong way around. When you put your foot into the clutch it pushes the bearing onto the pressure plate fingers (diaphragm) which declamps the clutch plate. That's when the thrust bearing is noisy.
Most of the time it's the input shaft when you take your foot off the clutch.

I thought you were an apprentice mechanic man, you should know this.

Lol don´t worry Rhys, you can always go work at KYP... They also told me it was a thrust bearing

In any case, was told it´s not really anything to worry about?

[2LV8ETR]

Lol don´t worry Rhys, you can always go work at KYP...

Hahahaha!

[NA_Goodness]

Nup. Wrong way around. When you put your foot into the clutch it pushes the bearing onto the pressure plate fingers (diaphragm) which declamps the clutch plate. That's when the thrust bearing is noisy.
Most of the time it's the input shaft when you take your foot off the clutch.

I thought you were an apprentice mechanic man, you should know this.

Cos I'm perfect in every possible way, and no everything about everything.

Ffs, we all make mistakes.

[lunjiaow]

Guess Rhys doesn't pay much attention at tafe or at work. =) =P

[NA_Goodness]

You clearly never went to MITA

[Tiddy]

 engine out 137.JPG   1.43MB   7 downloads

[Tiddy]

Motor and gearbox.
Version 8 STI with low kms, freshen up bottom end and work the heads
New linkages for the 6 speed(short shift)
Cusco centre differential controller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

BRAKES
http://www.project-m...cali_f6slim.php

REAR DIFF-1.5 WAY
http://www.kaazusa.com/lsd_subaru.html

Cosworth Oil Pump
Cosworth Oil Baffle
Cosworth Forged Pistons (92mm)
Cosworth Fully Counterweighted Forged Crankshaft (79mm)
Cosworth Forged Connecting Rods
Cosworth Rod Bearings
Cosworth Main Bearings
Cosworth Piston Rings
http://www.cosworth....aspx?id=1113468

Cams
Subaru EJ20 (2.0L) Set of four (NON-AVCS Type from 2000 to 2005)
"272" deg. 10mm lift

Highflowed heads, exhaust and intake ports enlarged


Unsure on valves so far.

Price so far ~12k

[2LV8ETR]

You clearly never went to Play School.

Fixed

[Tiddy]

haha
must be good at finger paintings by now

[Hanaldo]

Those brakes are fucking hot, will be jealous if you get them. I want a 6-pot Wilwood kit but need new wheels first, current wheels clip the calipers as is

I thought you were waiting to go with whatever your tuner recommended???

[Tiddy]

Thats what steve at mms recommended. Semi closee deck for better cooling. Might have to sllwve the block for some strength in the walls tho

[Tiddy]

Ok stroker kit is 4 grand from cosworth for the forged kit, bit over 6 for the billet kit.
Plus labour to disassemble the 2 litre block, insert kit and reassemble im probably looking at 5-7 grand, for the sake of 0.2L
Sean "GTRETA" has just a stock 2 litre bottom end and runs low 10s.
May stay 2 litre, Getting alot of feedback about the rings going on the cosworth kits.
The alternative is a HKS kit but I cant find much feedback on them.

Cams I can get are
272' intake 272' exhaust, 10mm lift from cosworth- $1500
264/264 with 9.4mm -$1500
depends how lumpy I want it, leaning towards 272 bit requires machining of the heads as AVCS will have to be deleted.
Will be looking into Kelford cams shortly.

Getting the motor and box with loom and ecu to my door from canada is costing me 750, which i thought was pretty keen! 6k for the cut itself with 31,00kms on it. 05 STI.

Getting the car back to a rolling shell at the moment and will be sending off for paint soon. Black is the colour of choice.

[Tiddy]

Possible weapon of choice, GT3076R
http://www.turbobyga...R_700382_12.htm

Also looking into HTA, FP GREEN, GTPUMPS. Not going IHI this time.
Externally gated